Which homes need it
- Older homes with original galvanized steel, now rusted inside
- Houses with grey polybutylene between the late 1970s and the 1990s
- Copper systems with repeated pinholes, often in hot lines
- Homes with a mix of materials from decades of patch repairs
Copper or PEX?
Type L copper is durable and well understood. PEX bends around corners, uses fewer joints and can be snaked through closed walls, which means fewer openings in finished rooms. Many repipes use PEX for branches and copper near the water heater.
How a repipe is planned
- Map each fixture, the main shut-off and the heater.
- Choose routes through basements, closets and bulkheads.
- Install the new system while keeping old pipe in service where possible.
- Switch over fixture by fixture so water is off for short periods.
- Pressure test, flush, and remove or abandon old lines.
Openings and patching
We cut neat, square openings and leave them ready for a drywaller. Typical repipes in a two-storey home involve a handful of openings, not whole walls.
Further reading
See polybutylene and galvanized pipes, water service line replacement and leak detection.
The short version
Tell-tale signs
- Faint hiss in a wall late at night
- Damp joist or rust drip below a bathroom
- Meter dial creeps with every tap in the house closed
- Blistered paint or a tea-coloured ring on a wall
Kit on the van
- Pin moisture meter and a thermal imager
- Tube cutters, propane torch, lead-free solder
- PEX crimp rings and a ratchet crimper
- Stainless repair clamps for a fast stop
How we go about it
- Leave the hole open a day if the cavity is soaked
- Close the closest valve, or the main if none holds
- Cut a tidy access hole right at the wet spot
- Saw out the bad length and sweat or crimp in new pipe
Your questions, answered plainly
Will we have water during a repipe?
Mostly yes; we switch sections over so outages are short and planned.
Does repiping need a permit?
Larger replacements may; we will advise on what applies.
