What actually blocks toilets
- So-called flushable wipes that never break down
- Children's toys, toothbrushes and bottle caps
- Thick paper in older 13-litre toilets converted to low-flow parts
- Mineral scale narrowing the rim jets and trapway
- Blockages further down the branch line
First, a proper plunger
A flange plunger with the rubber sleeve folded out seals into the bowl outlet. Push slowly first to drive air out, then work it firmly. A cup plunger meant for sinks will barely move a toilet clog.
What we do
- Run a closet auger, which has a protected bend so it will not scratch the porcelain.
- If the auger brings back nothing and the bowl still holds, lift the toilet off the flange.
- Push solid objects back out the way they came, from underneath.
- Reset the toilet on a new wax or foam gasket and new bolts, then flush test several times.
When to look further
Repeated toilet clogs in a house with mature trees point to the main; see main sewer line clearing. If the toilet itself is past its best, compare toilet repair with toilet installation, and keep our list of what not to flush near the bathroom.
The short version
Tell-tale signs
- Handle has to be held down to get a full flush
- Tank hisses and tops itself up all night
- Bowl wobbles or the vinyl round the base is soft
- Water climbs toward the rim on every flush
Kit on the van
- Fill valves, flappers and tank-to-bowl gaskets
- Wax rings, rubber seals and brass closet bolts
- Plastic shims and braided supply lines
- Putty knife and rags for scraping the old ring
How we go about it
- Close the stop, flush and sponge out what is left
- Run the closet auger or lift the bowl off the flange
- Fit new guts or set the bowl on a fresh seal
- Snug the bolts evenly, then shim and caulk
Your questions, answered plainly
Should I keep flushing to push it through?
No. One test flush at most; repeated flushing overflows the bowl.
Can a toilet be cleared without removing it?
Usually yes. Removal is needed for solid objects stuck in the trapway.