What a correct hookup looks like
- A dedicated shut-off on the hot-water supply under the sink
- A new braided or copper supply line with the right elbow fitting
- A drain hose looped high beneath the counter or through an air gap
- The drain connected above the trap at the tailpiece or disposal
- The machine levelled and anchored to the counter
How we install
- Turn off power and water, remove the kick plate and old unit.
- Check the old supply valve; replace it if it is a multi-turn type.
- Run the new line and drain hose through the cabinet hole without kinks.
- Slide the machine in, level it and fasten the brackets.
- Run a full wash cycle, watching every connection.
Electrical
Dishwashers need a suitable electrical supply. We connect to an existing, correct circuit; new circuits are for a licensed electrician.
Related
Dishwasher not draining? It may be the sink drain; see kitchen drain cleaning. Planning a new sink? See kitchen sink installation.
The short version
Tell-tale signs
- Wet hose bib or stain behind the washer box
- Spout drips with the lever fully closed
- Swollen particleboard at the bottom of the vanity
- One tap trickles while the others run fine
Kit on the van
- Quarter-turn stops and braided connectors
- Tubular trap kits in white plastic and chrome
- Putty, silicone and thread tape
- Headlamp and a foam pad for under-cabinet work
How we go about it
- Shut both stops and open the tap to bleed it
- Strip the fixture and look at seats, seals and threads
- Fit the new cartridge, supplies or the whole unit
- Turn the stops on slow and run hot then cold
Your questions, answered plainly
Can you install a dishwasher where there was none?
Usually yes, with a cabinet removed and new water, drain and power run to the space.
Hot or cold supply?
Most manufacturers specify the hot line; we follow the installation manual.